Jewelry Tools Tips^2.0

The customer’s top section must be shaped to require size before installation. It must also be cleaned to prevent any dirt from a permanent adhesion to stones after heating. The top section as shown in Fig. 1, must be rigid enough to equal the bending resistance of the bottom shank.Otherwise, it must be reinforced or installed on an under-bezel as shown in Fig. 2, A&B. If the top section has excessive rigidity that cannot be corrected, you may have to remove metal from the bottom shank to improve the spring tension. Stay clear from the latch area.

As you determine where to cut, put the two shanks together on mandrel to check for proper size and for a flush match at soldering joints. Several methods can be used to join the components. They include: binding wire, locking tweezers or just holding the superfit in a self-locking tweezers. Protect the metal surface and diamonds from oxidation by coating with boric acid. Flux the joint and solder starting with the hinged side, so you can make an adjustment before soldering at the latch area. After final soldering, place the ring in mineral oil to restore the inherent hardness.Wipe off, pickle and clean. Attention: when soldering near the latch or hinge area, apply a solder stop solution to prevent an overflow problem

Check if tongue is flush with the inside radius and the latch with outside surface. Clean any solder inside ring and check for roundness. Adjust roundness or spring tension by either spreading the bottom shank or by closing the diameter of the top shank as shown in Fig. 3. To check the spring tension, try to pull apart until you see a separation gap. As you pull and release a few times you will be able to determine the right springback. The 18k and platinum have a more sluggish springback that improves in time.When removing metal for a blend-in finish, it is vital to preserve the latch thickness and the bottom “shoulder” area.While 2 1/2mm shank can be rounded slightly, the 4 and 6 mm shanks have more “meat” for a comfort fit or dome top.

 

Check for proper spring tension. Use a lapping wheel with slight compound because a soft buffing wheel will disort the fine separation lines. After cleaning, open the ring and check for leftover compound in the interlock. Apply a touch of grease on extension balls, tongue-end and hinge area. As you close, check the spring tension again.

 

Fig. 4 shows the latch in a position that will not trigger a separation and poised for a spring back to a closed position. This demonstrated the safety against accidental openings.When dirt is lodged between the latch tail and “shoulder” and it is necessary to open, depress the latch while trying to pull shank apart from its frictional hold.

 

 

For maximum resistance against bending stress the superfit shanks have a thickness of 2mm. However , the kind of wear and tear that will bend a regular ring out of shape will also affect a superfit.When the superfit begins to lose the spring tension it will also silence the “audible” click. To restore the spring tension see Fig. 3. If the problem persists, a wider shank must be installed or the ring must be protected from abusive wear. Out of concern for durability, the use of a 2-1/2mm shank should be limited up to 7-1/2 and up to 8-1/2 in white gold. For people with large knuckles a 2-1/2mm shank will accentuate the knuckle size while a 6mm shank will dramatically improve the finger appearance, A wider shank is also recommended for top heavy styling.

 

These are special orders as they are assembled from two different sized shanks and shaped into your required size. These rings are limited in down-sizing. They are not available in sizes under 4-1/2, under 5-1/2 in wider shanks

 

Position the ring between your thumb and forefinger. Holding a pen close to the tip will allow a controlled opening without scratching the surface. Press the “dimple” on the latch to trigger a separation gap. Pull the shanks apart for opening. Do not pull at the latch

 

Hold a ballpoint pen about 1/2” from the tip, and reach for the “dimple”. Preferably turn the ring to position the “dimple” on the palm side of your hand. Press to trigger a separation gap. Pull at the head for a controlled opening and remove. If the tip of the pen is too thick, it will not enter deep enough to trigger a separation.

 

 

1. If the spring tension is fading without abusive wear, check for cracks in metal or weakness within the top section.

2. If there is bindin closing, check if tongue is entering in center and if both extension balls make a uniform contact before closing.

3. If the latch does not trigger a separation, there could be dirt between “latch tail” and “shoulder”, a bent-Down tongue or tongue too short. If necessary, stretch the tongue at the end area about .001 at a pulling until it works.

4. If the latch does not trigger a separation and it is necessary to remove the ring from the customers finger: depress the latch while pulling the shank apart.

5. If the latch slips out during a pull test, redress the hook cavity wall and bend down the latch hook very slightly.

6. If the latch hook is bent down too far and is difficult to open, slide the ring over the mandrel and pull down gently until you see a separation gap about .020, enough to straighten the overbent latch hook.

7. If some repairs require the use of pliers, avoid metal distortion. 8.When the superfit is delivered to customers or sent out for plating , polishing, stone setting or engraving, make sure they are familiar with handling a superfit and attach a warning note: Do not pull at the latch!! If the latch has been abused and must be replaced, it is not covered by the warranty.

 

For opening , do not use a safety pin.To avoid scratches, use a dull pointed object or a ball-point pen. If the tip is too thick, it may not enter deep enough to trigger a separation.This demonstrates the safety against accidental opening. If the “dimple” on the latch in not clearly visible, fill in with a dark ink. In case if pinching,move the ring from side to side while closing.Occasionally remove the ring for cleaning. Use an old toothbrush with liquid soap to reach the open interlock, then rinse and dry. If the ring has been subjected to a build up of oil and dirt without cleaning, it may be difficult to open. In this case, rinse you ring in the finger with warm water to soften the dirt, then open for cleaning. If still difficult to open, hold Down the latch while pulling the shank apart to overcome the frictional hold.

 

If a Superfit shank is accidentally bent out of round, the ring losse its spring tension and silences the audible closing snap. If a correction is not made and the ring is worn for months without spring tension, the interlock will wear excessively and render it beyond repair. The loss of spring tension may gradually develop when the shank chosen for installation is not wide enough to resist the bending stress of daily wear and tear. A loss of spring tension may also develop when the top section is in need of reinforcement to match or exceed the rigidity of the bottom shank. It is important to know that a loss of spring tension is not an immediate danger to the safety of the ring. The loss of spring tension effects the safety latch in a way that resists any attempt to change its safeguarding position. The only way to depress the latch is to hold the ring together tightly, in a closed position. Those who are not aware of the dual safety may pry and pull the latch hook to open the ring. A sharp bend may result and show a stress line that calls for replacing the latch. For out of warranty service we will replace the shank with a 50% credit for the old shank and a 40% discount on our installation. Customers should be made aware of their responsibility to listen to the audible closing snap as the ultimate assurance of safety.